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Business Profiles: Baltimore Crab & Seafood
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Baltimore Crab & Seafood
253 Peters St., Atlanta 404-523-2121
By BOB TOWNSEND, For accessAtlanta, Published on: 08/03/2006
ONCE A WAREHOUSE DISTRICT, Castleberry Hill has become a hip neighborhood of lofts and galleries with frequent art strolls. Baltimore Crab & Seafood makes a somewhat curious addition to the area. Located a few doors down from Slice (the postmodern pizza and martini place), it's mostly a takeout operation specializing in seafood combos and home-style sides.
BEYOND THE PORTHOLE: The porthole window in the big, blue entrance door evokes a bit of Baltimore Bay. But oddly, the original Baltimore Crab & Seafood is in Philadelphia. Inside, the look is functional but bright, with brushed steel and linoleum, and a small bar with some white plastic stools for ad hoc dining-in. You order at the counter, where you can peek into a frosty refrigerated case filled with salads and desserts.
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HOURS: Noon-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays; Noon-Midnight Fridays-Saturdays;
2-11p.m. Sundays; Closed Mondays
CREDIT CARDS: MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover
PRICES: Seafood combos and platters $8-$20; sides $2-$12; desserts $3-$9
RESERVATIONS: No
RECOMMENDED DISHES: Fried seafood, sautéed crabs, banana pudding
PARKING: On site
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No
SMOKING POLICY: Nonsmoking
NOISE LEVEL: Low to moderate
TAKEOUT: Yes
VERDICT: A take-away seafood joint in Castleberry Hills
What helps give the crab and shrimp combination (above) a taste of Baltimore is the hearty and spicy Old Bay seasoning. It also gives the crab cake and whiting plate a nice boost, too.
FRIED AND SAUTÉED: Though cooked-to-order seafood is the thing here, the menu ranges from grilled steak to chicken wings and sandwiches. Seafood comes fried, broiled, steamed or sautéed. We wanted to try the sautéed hard-shell crabs, but they were sold out the night we visited. Dungeness crabs made a pretty good substitute. Cooked in a butter sauce with garlic and covered in plenty of Old Bay seasoning, they were suitably spicy and messy. Fried selections can be ordered a la carte, or in platters and combos with a choice of sides. Sweet lump crab cakes are fried in small dollops and look like hush puppies. Whiting fillets are a seafood joint's archetypal guilty pleasure, with crunchy batter perfect for slathering with tartar sauce.
HOMEY SIDES: Thin french fries are tossed in seasoned salt. Slaw is pickley and heavy on the mayo. Southern-style sides include macaroni and cheese, candied yams, cabbage and green beans. There's also potato salad, tuna macaroni salad and seafood salad. On the lighter side are broccoli, corn on the cob and red-skinned boiled potatoes. Classic banana pudding is decadently creamy and studded with vanilla wafers.
